Surfing is really my first love—long before I discovered my passion for boxing, Muay Thai and Filipino Martial Arts. However, there are a ton of
excuses reasons why I can’t fully commit to it. Or maybe I just don’t love it enough to pursue it. Let’s not get dramatic and see below.
Possible accidents – Surfing is an extreme sport. It’s very risky. Surfers, especially super newbies like me, are prone to many various injuries. Duh, I don’t wanna die yet or get injured to the point I can’t do martial arts or reggae dance anymore! I’m particularly scared of crashing on a reef, colliding with surfboards/other surfers, fin ripping my body, tangled cord—I could go on and on.
Doubts and insecurities – Being scared is one thing. Being insecure is another. I’m insecure that I’m not fit and strong enough to meet the demands of surfing. I constantly doubt myself whether I can stand up on the board, paddle, balance, etc. because I have weak core and poor balance. Funny thing is, I’m sometimes kinda more worried about not being able to successfully ride a wave than experiencing possible mishaps!
That was me, a couple of years ago—scared and insecure. Until that one fateful day when I was able to stand up and balance myself again after a long time. You see, prior to that day, I tried learning how to surf in Baler to no avail. Epic fail I guess is a better description. I had a hard time even just pushing myself up the board (like doing cobra pose in Yoga). Imagine my frustration then. I felt really pathetic and weak. Lampa!
Then I promised myself I’ll get stronger and be able to effin stand up the next time around. So when I heard we’re going to surf in Liwliwa, Zambales, I did my best to lose weight and toughen up. That’s when I started boxing. And thanks to my stronger-than-before body and Kila Bot Sir Ping, I was able to stand up many times and really enjoyed surfing like I knew what I was doing. Hahaha! I was stoked! But I’m still very far from being skilled. Maybe as far as achieving my ideal body. But that’s a different story.
Proximity and accessibility – Obviously, I need to be in a surfing spot if I want to learn how to surf. Being a Manila girl, I’m nowhere near those surfing spots. Probably the closest is Real in Quezon or Liwliwa in San Felipe, Zambales. Either way, it would still take hours to get there. Or again, maybe it’s just an excuse. Or not. And yes, I’m aware I could learn in Club Manila East‘s wave pool because I’ve also tried it before. Well, I just really want a hobby/sport that I can do quite easily whenever and wherever I want to. Surfing isn’t that, unless I decide to live by the sea.
Cost – Sometimes everything boils down to affordability. I know many hardcore surfers would say it’s not that expensive to have a surfer’s lifestyle. I beg to differ. Because in my case, I have to pay for accommodation, transportation, food, surfboard rental and surf lessons. It’s like having a vacation only more fun! And a day or two isn’t enough for me to learn/be good at surfing.
Despite these reasons, I know I would be surfing again, hopefully soon. I want to spend like a week of just catching waves and getting stoked in Siargao or Mati in Davao, or Baler or La Union or Bali—anywhere surf-able! In the meantime, I’ll continue getting stronger and more flexible. 😉
Let me just share this inspiring quote from one-armed surfer, Bethany Hamilton:
Courage doesn’t mean you don’t get afraid. Courage means you don’t let fear stop you.